«Oswald Oelz, born 1943 in Rankweil/Austria, has, as a mountaineer, medical professor, researcher and author lived his whole life inspired by the mountains. From his youth and throughout his life he has been a bold rock climber. Together with the best mountaineers of his generation, he has climbed extensively in the Himalayas, reaching Everest in 1978, among others. He was the third person to climb the highest summits of all seven continents.
Parallel to his mountain climbing, Oswald Oelz pursued a successful medical career and became one of the foremost researchers on acute mountain sickness. His work has led to a larger understanding and new therapies of this illness. He is the author of «Mit Eispickel und Stethoskop» (1999), a lively account of his mountaineering adventures and professional experiences, as well as coauthor of «Kopfwehberge» (2001), a history of high altitude medicine. His publication «Everest – Lhotse, Schweizer am Everest 1952 and 1956» is a history of the unforgettable expeditions undertaken by the Swiss.»
Albert Mountain Award 2006